Pho

One of my favorite meal of all time of my favorite meals is Pho, the Vietnamese beef noodle soup.  Living here in Seattle, where there is a very large Vietnamese population, has given me the opportunity to taste many different versions of Pho, most of it authentic and delicious.  I’ve always been interested in trying to make the Pho broth, but for some reason had the belief that it was a closely guarded skill of old Vietnamese men.  I was thrilled to find this recipe, which is both easy, and more importantly, just as good as any Pho I’ve had in a restaurant.  The oxtail meat is simply delicious, so don’t forget to pick the bones after cooking and add the meat back to the broth right before serving.

Ingredients

For the broth:

• 4 pounds Oxtails; cut into 1 1/2 to 2-inch pieces and trimmed of fat
• 3-inch piece of ginger, unpeeled
• 1 large onion, halved and unpeeled
• 4 Garlic Cloves, lightly crushed
• 1/3 cup nuoc mam (fish sauce)
• 6 whole star anise
• 5 whole cloves
• Cinnamon stick
• 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
• 4 bay leaves
• Thin Sliced Brisket or Flank Steak

To serve the soup:

• 1 pound 1/4-inch rice noodles
• 2 bunches scallions, sliced thin
• 1/2 cup tightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
• 1/2 cup parsley, roughly chopped
• 1/2 cup basil, approximately, whole fresh plants (minus roots) if possible
• 3 large limes, cut into wedges and seeds removed
• Red chile paste or sliced fresh hot chilies (optional)

Instructions

1. Add the oxtails to a large pot and cover with about 4 inches of water.  Bring to a boil, skimming the foam from the top as it accumulates.
2. Meanwhile, char the onion and ginger under a broiler until lightly black, about 10 minutes.  Remove the charred skin and then add to the pot with the garlic cloves.
3. Toast the cinnamon stick, cloves, star anise, bay leaves and fennel in a small skillet until fragrant, about 4 minutes.  Add the spices to a paper tea filter or cheese cloth sack and add to the broth.
4. Once the broth has reached a boil, reduce to a very slight simmer and add the nuoc mam.  Continue simmering, uncovered, for 4 to 5 hours, or until the oxtail meat is tender and falling off the bone.
5. Remove the vegetables and spices from the broth and discard.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the oxtails to a plate and refrigerate.
6. Move the pot to the refrigerator and let chill overnight, or until the fat has solidified on top.
7. The next day, remove the congealed fat from the top of the broth.  Return to the stove and bring to a simmer.
8. Once the stock is reheated, add the sliced brisket or flank steak and cook until the meat is tender, about 1 hour.
9. Once the meat is done, soak the rice noodles in hot water for 10 minutes.  Before serving, add the oxtail meat from the bones back to the broth.  Place a serving of rice noodles in a wide bowl and using a slotted spoon, add the meat from the broth on top.  Ladle the broth over the noodles and meat and serve with garnishes.

Best Skirt Steak Ever

One of my favorite cuts of beef is the skirt steak.  Its generally more tender and flavorful than flank steak, due to its higher fat content, and usually cheaper too.  The best way to cook it is over a really hot grill for 1-2 minutes per side, or until barely on the cooked side of rare.  Beware over cooking, or you will get something resembling shoe leather.  

Almost any marinade will do, but something acidic will help to tenderize the meat.  Below is my favorite recipe for preparing skirt steak, adapted from something I saw in an Alice Waters cookbook.  Anchovies and garlic make a surprising marinade, but one that adds flavor and just the right amount of saltiness to the meat.  For those who cringe at the thought of anchovies, get over it – grilling mellows the flavor and adds a smokiness to the whole thing, leaving no discernible anchovy flavor. 

Anchovy Garlic Grilled Skirt Steak

• 2 pounds skirt steak
• 1 2oz jar of salted anchovies in olive oil
• 6 garlic cloves
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• salt and pepper

1) Remove the anchovies from the oil and roughly chop.  Peel the garlic.  Add the anchovies and garlic to a food processor and pulse briefly – don’t over do it or the blend will turn into a paste.  Add the olive oil, and the oil from the anchovy jar, a touch of salt and a good amount of pepper.  Pulse again briefly.

2) Lay the skirt steak out on a baking sheet.  Spoon 1/2 of the anchovy garlic marinade over the skirt steak and rub into the meat.  Flip the steaks and repeat with the remaining marinade.  Let the meat rest for 1 hour.

3) Turn on your grill to high and let heat for 15 minutes.  You want it to be really hot when you add the steak.  Once heated, add the skirt steak and cook for about 2 minutes.  Flip the meat and cook for another 2 minutes.  Be sure not to over cook, or the meat will come out tough.  Remember, skirt steak is very thin and will continue cooking once you remove it from the grill, so if it looks a little underdone when you take it off, don’t worry.

4) Slice the skirt steak against the grain into small strips.  Add some parsley for garnish, if desired, and serve immediately.  I like serving it with just a simple salad – this meat really stands out well on its own.