Chicken Waterzooi

One of the things I remember most about my time in Belgium, aside from the beer, was the chicken stew they call Waterzooi.  The national dish of Belgium, chicken waterzooi is popular and widely available, and was the perfect meal on a rainy day.  It has been rainy in my neck of the woods recently, perfect stew weather, so I decided to give it a try.  Here’s the recipe:

Ingredients

• 1 Whole chicken (3-4 pounds)
• 2 leeks
• 2 onions
• 4 large carrots
• 1 pound (16 oz) mushrooms
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 thyme sprigs
• 1 lemon
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 2 tablespoon fresh ground pepper

Instructions

1. Slice 1 leek, 2 carrots and 1 onion into large pieces.  Rinse off the chicken and place in a large stock pot with the leeks and the carrots and onion.  Add the bay leaves and thyme and 1 tablespoon of the pepper.  Turn on medium and bring to a boil.
2. Cook the chicken for about 20 minutes, or until poached and not pink can be seen under the skin.  Remove the chicken and set aside to cool.
3. Strain the remaining vegetables from the pot, reserving the stock.
4. Slice the remaining carrots, leek, mushrooms and onion into small pieces.
5. Heat the olive oil in the stock pot on medium-high heat.  Add the onions and leeks and saute for 5 minutes, or until soft.
6. Add the carrots and mushrooms and the remaining salt, pepper and reserved chicken stock.
7. Reduce to a simmer, and cook until the vegetables are soft, about 30 minutes.
8. Meanwhile, once the chicken has cooled, remove the skin and pick the cooked meat off the bones.  For an authentic Belgian feel, remove the chicken in long strips by peeling along the bias.
9. Once the vegetables have cooked, add the chicken to the pot and cook for 5 minutes more.
10. Add the butter and cream, stirring to incorporate.
11. To serve, ladle the soup in wide bowls, and squeeze a wedge of lemon over the top.

Homemade Taco Seasoning

I love tacos.  They are one of the few perfect foods – both delicious and handy.  I used to buy the packaged taco seasoning at whole foods to add some flavor to the ground beef, but after a little experimentation, I’ve come up with a recipe for a damn good taco seasoning you can make at home for much cheaper.

Ingredients

• 1 pound ground beef (preferably no more than 16% fat)
• 3-4 tablespoons chili powder
• 1 tablespoon garlic powder
• 1 tablespoon onion powder
• 1/2 tablespoon salt (may use more to taste)
• 1 teaspoon dried cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
• 2 tablespoons salsa (any kind will do)
• 1 tablespoon chipotle pepper sauce
• 1/4 cup warm water

Instructions

1. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat.
2. Add the ground beef and saute until the meet is cooked.
3. Add the spices and the water to the pan and stir to combine with the meat.
4. Continue cooking and stirring until the water has cooked off, about 5 minutes.  Serve immediately.

Pho

One of my favorite meal of all time of my favorite meals is Pho, the Vietnamese beef noodle soup.  Living here in Seattle, where there is a very large Vietnamese population, has given me the opportunity to taste many different versions of Pho, most of it authentic and delicious.  I’ve always been interested in trying to make the Pho broth, but for some reason had the belief that it was a closely guarded skill of old Vietnamese men.  I was thrilled to find this recipe, which is both easy, and more importantly, just as good as any Pho I’ve had in a restaurant.  The oxtail meat is simply delicious, so don’t forget to pick the bones after cooking and add the meat back to the broth right before serving.

Ingredients

For the broth:

• 4 pounds Oxtails; cut into 1 1/2 to 2-inch pieces and trimmed of fat
• 3-inch piece of ginger, unpeeled
• 1 large onion, halved and unpeeled
• 4 Garlic Cloves, lightly crushed
• 1/3 cup nuoc mam (fish sauce)
• 6 whole star anise
• 5 whole cloves
• Cinnamon stick
• 1 tablespoon fennel seeds
• 4 bay leaves
• Thin Sliced Brisket or Flank Steak

To serve the soup:

• 1 pound 1/4-inch rice noodles
• 2 bunches scallions, sliced thin
• 1/2 cup tightly packed fresh cilantro leaves, roughly chopped
• 1/2 cup parsley, roughly chopped
• 1/2 cup basil, approximately, whole fresh plants (minus roots) if possible
• 3 large limes, cut into wedges and seeds removed
• Red chile paste or sliced fresh hot chilies (optional)

Instructions

1. Add the oxtails to a large pot and cover with about 4 inches of water.  Bring to a boil, skimming the foam from the top as it accumulates.
2. Meanwhile, char the onion and ginger under a broiler until lightly black, about 10 minutes.  Remove the charred skin and then add to the pot with the garlic cloves.
3. Toast the cinnamon stick, cloves, star anise, bay leaves and fennel in a small skillet until fragrant, about 4 minutes.  Add the spices to a paper tea filter or cheese cloth sack and add to the broth.
4. Once the broth has reached a boil, reduce to a very slight simmer and add the nuoc mam.  Continue simmering, uncovered, for 4 to 5 hours, or until the oxtail meat is tender and falling off the bone.
5. Remove the vegetables and spices from the broth and discard.  Using a slotted spoon, remove the oxtails to a plate and refrigerate.
6. Move the pot to the refrigerator and let chill overnight, or until the fat has solidified on top.
7. The next day, remove the congealed fat from the top of the broth.  Return to the stove and bring to a simmer.
8. Once the stock is reheated, add the sliced brisket or flank steak and cook until the meat is tender, about 1 hour.
9. Once the meat is done, soak the rice noodles in hot water for 10 minutes.  Before serving, add the oxtail meat from the bones back to the broth.  Place a serving of rice noodles in a wide bowl and using a slotted spoon, add the meat from the broth on top.  Ladle the broth over the noodles and meat and serve with garnishes.

Best Lunch Ever

Well, this was at least one of the best lunches ever.  We’ve been on kind of a fat frying binge recently, with a lot of agedashi tofu, calamari, and tempura.  Since we had the peanut oil, some fresh walla walla sweet onions, and were looking for something good for lunch, we got fancy and made some onion rings to go with our BLTs.  I wouldn’t make onion rings everyday – my waist would quickly balloon with the oniony goodness – but on occasion its a real treat.  BLTs on their own are probably my favorite sandwiches – a perfect mix of crunchy and soft, tangy and sweet, and fatty goodness.  I usually use only thick cut pepper bacon from the butcher, rather than anything packaged.  

The Perfect BLT

• 2 slices bread from a rustic country loaf
• 3 slices thick cut pepper bacon, preferably uncured and nitrate/nitrite free
• 1 ripe tomato
• 1 handful fresh greens (I like arugula, but any greens will do)
• Mayonnaise
• Dijon Mustard

1) Cook the pepper bacon on a cast iron griddle, or other heavy bottomed pan.  Meanwhile, toast the bread on medium.  

2) Spread the mayonnaise on one side, and dijon mustard on the other.  Slice the tomato.  Once the bacon is crispy, add to the bread, then add the tomato and cover with the greens.  Enjoy immediately.

Brussel Sprouts, oh my!

It’s been crazy busy here at the Cooking and Coding HQ over the last couple of weeks.  I’ve been working on finishing up the latest version of a side project, Notes/Tasks, and have had visits from family and friends.  However, one rainy night last week, I had an epiphany brought on by brussel sprouts.  For those of you who don’t know me, I am a very big fan of brussel sprouts – fresh cut from the stalkand cooked in a little butter and salt is fantastic.  But however much I’ve enjoyed these little green veggies, I was never able to get the flavors perfectly matched.  Until last week.  And the thing I was missing was vingar…

Brussel Sprouts with Pancetta

• 1.5 pounds fresh, trimmed, brussel sprouts, preferrably still on the stalk when purchased.
• 2 oz. pancetta
• 2 medium shallots
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 tbsp red wine or sherry vinegar
• 1/4 cup warm water
• salt and pepper to taste

1. Clean and quarter the brussel sprouts, trimming off any excess stalk.  Cut the pancetta into 1/4 inch strips.  Finely chop the shallot and garlic.
2. Heat a skillet over medium high heat.  Add the pancetta and cook until browned and all the fat has been rendered out.  Remove the pancetta from the pan.
3. Add the shallots and garlic and cook for 1-2 minutes or until the shallots begin to soften.  Add the brussel sprout quarters and continue cooking for 5 minutes.
4. Once the outside of the brussel sprouts are a bright green, add the water to the pan and cover immediately.  Continue steaming for 5-10 minutes, or until the brussel sprouts are fork tender.
5. Remove the lid from the pan and cook off any remaining water.  Add the vinegar and cook for another minute.  Turn off the heat, toss in the cooked pancetta and serve immediately.

Texas Ribs

I’ve had a life long obsession with ribs.  Half my family are old blood Texans, so I was raised with a certain kind of barbecue.  Most people are familiar with the sweeter east coast barbecue out of the Carolinas, or the molassesy barbecue from St. Louis, but Texas barbecue is a whole beast unto itself, characterized by savory rubs, and sauce that’s just used for dipping rather than cooking.

For a few years now, I’ve been trying to find a good way to cook ribs without a smokehouse.  I’ve tried grilling numerous ways, with different heats and charcoals and gas.  I’ve tried broiling in the oven.  I even tried cooking them in a pan (once), but I’ve never been able to get the same fall-off-the-bone doneness that a good 12 hours stint in a smokehouse will give you.  Until now.

This recipe is the result of at least $300 worth or ribs over the summer.  I’ve used Alton Brown’s basic method for slow braising the ribs, though I finish them off on a barbeque to give them the smokey wood flavor.  I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

Ribs

• 2 1.5 pound baby back pork ribs.  Trader Joe’s is a surprisingly good source for reasonably priced ribs, but its a crap shoot as to whether they will actually be in stock.
• 2 tbsp kosher salt
• 1 tbsp ground black pepper
• 1/2 tbsp dried thyme
• 1/2 tbsp oregano
• 1 tbsp chili powder
• 1 tbsp garlic powder
• 1 tbsp onion powder
• 1 tsp cayenne pepper
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1/2 cup chicken stock
• 1/2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tbsp sherry vinegar
• 1 tbsp rice vinegar
• 4 garlic cloves, crushed
• 2 tbsp brown sugar

1. Combine all the dry ingredients.  Place the racks on individually on foil sheets and spread the rub evenly over each.  Cover with another piece of foil and fold the sides and ends to form a closed packet.
2. Combine the wet ingredients in a bowl and microwave for 1 minute.  Open one end of the foil packet and pour half the liquid into each.
3. Place the rib packets on a baking sheet and into the oven at 250°.  Cook for 2.5 hours.
4. Once done, empty the juices from each foil packet into a sauce pan one at a time.  The easiest way to do this drape the packets over the pan and cut a small hole in the bottom to drain the liquid.  Once all the liquid is out, bring juices to a boil over medium high heat.  Add the 2 tbsp brown sugar and stir to dissolve.  Reduce the sauce down to a thick consistency.  At this point, if you like a tomatoey sauce, you can add 1/4 cup of your favorite barbecue sauce and continue cooking for another few minutes.
5. Meanwhile, heat your grill on high for at least 10 minutes – you want it to be nice and hot.  5 minutes in, add a handful of your favorite wood chips – I like apple or alder – to get it good and smokey.
6. Brush the racks with sauce on both sides and place on the grill.  You want to cook both sides only until the sauce begins to caramelize and you get a nice smokey flavor – don’t over do it.  No more than 5 minutes total.
7. Once finished with the grill.  Cut the ribs into section and combine with the remaining sauce in a large bowl.  Toss to get them all smothered and serve immediately.

Note: true, this is not technically barbecue, but is as close as most people can get without a spare shed to convert into a smokehouse.  I think the end results speak for themselves.

Prosciutto Wrapped Scallops over sauteed Oyster Mushrooms

We’ve cooked a lot of recipes using scallops (one of my favorites, yet to appear here, is scallops with pancetta and pea shoots), but this is my new favorite.  We were inspired by a fabulous dinner we ate at the Harvest Vine – one of the best restaurants in Seattle.  This recipe combines the buttery flavors of prosciutto melted into the sweet flesh of the scallops, over woody oyster mushrooms.  By the way, oyster mushrooms are, in my opinion, one of the hidden treasures of the supermarktet.  At least here in the NW, we can get them for about $8 per pound, which is a steal for such a great tasting mushroom.

The Scallops

• 2 Large (U16) Scallops (About 1/2 pound)
• 2 slices prosciutto, preferably imported from Parma or Serrano
• Salt and Pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 450°. Prepare the scallops by removing the foot (the tough tissue on one side of the meat).  Salt and pepper liberally on both sides.
2. Heat a cast iron skillet over medium-high and add enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan.  Wrap the prosciutto slices around the scallops, tucking the ends so the wrap is tight.
3. Once the oil has barely started to smoke, add the scallops to the pan, and immediately place in the oven.
4. As the scallops cook in the oven, the fat from the prosciutto will slowly baste the whole package.  When done, the scallops will be caramelized on top and the prosciutto will be slightly crispy, about 5 minutes.

The Oyster Mushrooms

• 1 pound oyster mushrooms
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 shallot
• 1 tsp thyme
• 1/2 tsp paprika
• 1 tbsp butter
• salt and pepper

1. Cut the mushrooms of the main stalk, and rinse.  Mince the shallot and garlic.
2. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add the butter.  Once hot, add the garlic and shallots.  Cook for about a minute, until soft.
3. Add the oyster mushrooms, thyme and paprika.  Continue cooking for 5 minutes on medium heat, then reduce to low for another 10 minutes.  The oyster mushrooms will be done when they have darkened in color and began to caramelize.  Finish with salt and pepper to taste.

Best Skirt Steak Ever

One of my favorite cuts of beef is the skirt steak.  Its generally more tender and flavorful than flank steak, due to its higher fat content, and usually cheaper too.  The best way to cook it is over a really hot grill for 1-2 minutes per side, or until barely on the cooked side of rare.  Beware over cooking, or you will get something resembling shoe leather.  

Almost any marinade will do, but something acidic will help to tenderize the meat.  Below is my favorite recipe for preparing skirt steak, adapted from something I saw in an Alice Waters cookbook.  Anchovies and garlic make a surprising marinade, but one that adds flavor and just the right amount of saltiness to the meat.  For those who cringe at the thought of anchovies, get over it – grilling mellows the flavor and adds a smokiness to the whole thing, leaving no discernible anchovy flavor. 

Anchovy Garlic Grilled Skirt Steak

• 2 pounds skirt steak
• 1 2oz jar of salted anchovies in olive oil
• 6 garlic cloves
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• salt and pepper

1) Remove the anchovies from the oil and roughly chop.  Peel the garlic.  Add the anchovies and garlic to a food processor and pulse briefly – don’t over do it or the blend will turn into a paste.  Add the olive oil, and the oil from the anchovy jar, a touch of salt and a good amount of pepper.  Pulse again briefly.

2) Lay the skirt steak out on a baking sheet.  Spoon 1/2 of the anchovy garlic marinade over the skirt steak and rub into the meat.  Flip the steaks and repeat with the remaining marinade.  Let the meat rest for 1 hour.

3) Turn on your grill to high and let heat for 15 minutes.  You want it to be really hot when you add the steak.  Once heated, add the skirt steak and cook for about 2 minutes.  Flip the meat and cook for another 2 minutes.  Be sure not to over cook, or the meat will come out tough.  Remember, skirt steak is very thin and will continue cooking once you remove it from the grill, so if it looks a little underdone when you take it off, don’t worry.

4) Slice the skirt steak against the grain into small strips.  Add some parsley for garnish, if desired, and serve immediately.  I like serving it with just a simple salad – this meat really stands out well on its own.

 

Duck and Cabbage Gyoza

For those of you in the know, Gyoza are the most delicious thing this side of italian food.  I mean, what could be better than little fried packets of vegetables and meat?  Seriously.  The only thing better than restuarant gyoza is homemade – its actually pretty easy, and if you are willing to spend the time, totally worth it.

This is an interesting twist on the standard gyoza recipe that uses chicken (ok) and/or pork (delicious) – instead we used some of the duck confit that’s been looking so good in the fridge.  If you don’t have duck, substitute about a 1/2 pound of ground pork.  This recipe will make about 30 gyoza, but can be portioned up or down easily.

Ingredients:

• Meat from 1 duck confit leg, or about 1 cup depending on the size of the leg
• 2 cups cabbage, finely chopped
• 1 cup onion, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup scallions (aka green onion), chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 shallot, minced
• 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
• 1 teaspoon tamari
• 3 tablespoons peanut oil
• 1 egg
• 1 4oz package of round gyoza wrappers (about 30 per pack, available at any asian grocery)

Making the Filling

1) Pick the meat off the duck leg.  There really is no clean way to do this, so don’t be afraid to get your fingers greasy.  Once you’ve picked all the meat from the bones, chop it into a medium fine dice.  Remember, it’s got to go inside gyoza, so make it small, but not too small that it gets lost.

2) Heat a large skillet or wok over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil.  Once hot, add the onion, garlic, shallot and ginger.  Cook until tender, but not mushy, about 5 minutes.  Add the cabbage and continue to cook for another 4-5 minutes, or until the cabbage is soft.

3) Add the duck meat, scallions, tamari and egg to the pan and cook for 2 minutes more, or until the egg stops being runny.  Remove from the pan into a bowl.

Making the Gyoza
I usually prepare a space ahead of time for making the gyoza.  You’ll want a little dish of water, a towl to dry your hands, and a spoon.  The wrappers can get very sticky and tear easily if wet, so be sure to wipe off your hands if they get messy.

4) Take a gyoza wrapper and place flat on the work surface.  Moisten half the edge of the gyoza wrapper by dipping a finger in the dish of water and running it along the edge of the wrapper.

5) Next, place a half spoonful of the filling mixture in the middle of the gyoza wrapper and bring the edges together to form a taco shape.

6) Working from one side, bring the edges together and pinch them so they stick.  The water will make the inside edge slightly tacky, helping the process.  Create 5 crimps along the edge to ensure the sides stay joined.  Continue until all the filling and wrappers are used.

Cooking the Gyoza

7) Add the remaining tablespoon of the peanut oil to a heavy bottom skillet (I prefer cast iron) and heat on medium for a few minutes.  Once hot, add the gyoza to the pan, fold side up.  Cook for about 4 minutes on medium heat, or until the bottoms are crispy and brown.

8 ) Add 1/4 cup of water to the pan and cover immediately.  I usually add the water with one hand and have the lid in the other so I can cover quickly and minimize the hot oil spraying everywhere.  Continue cooking the gyoza until the water has cooked off, or about another 5 minutes.

9) Remove the lid and cook for 1 minute more to firm everything up.  Remove to a plate and serve immediately.

Duck Confit

I’ve had an obsession for the last 6 months with duck fat. To be more specific, with finding duck fat so I can make a proper duck confit. When I was in France a couple of years ago, I was introduced to the wonderfulness that is duck cooked in it’s own fat. The rich, dark meat would appear in delicious dishes, from cassoulet to salads. Since I got back to the states, I’ve been trying to figure out how to make duck confit so I can have the meat around for myself. You can find duck confit in specialty stores, but it is cheaper, and like most things, better when you cook it yourself.

In French, confit means to preserve, usually through a combination of salt curing to remove excess moisture and slow cooking in fat. Once prepared, duck confit can last several months in the fridge (if it’s stored covered in the fat you used to cook it). But, to be honest, I’ve never had it last that long! In the states, raw duck is pretty easy to find: I can get good legs at the local Whole Foods for about $5 per pound. Duck fat on the other hand, is quite a bit more difficult. At least in the quantities I was looking for – between 2 and 4 pounds, depending on how many legs you are cooking.

Since I couldn’t find 2 pounds without paying an arm and a leg, I initially decided to try some of the recipes that allow you to substitute olive oil for the duck fat. Bad decision. The duck was, 1) too salty, but that may have been a function of the recipe, and 2) had a very weird flavor. Overall, it lacked the almost creamy texture and mellow, buttery flavor I remembered.

So, after months of searching, I was at the local Uwajimaya Asian supermarket looking for gyoza wrappers in the freezer section and stumbled on about 6 pounds of rendered duck fat: Yellow Gold! And for only 7 bucks a pound (that might sound like a lot to some of you, but keep in mind you can strain the fat once you are done and reuse it a few times). I only ended up with 2 pounds, and four meaty duck legs, but I was set!

So, here is a recipe for Duck Confit, adapted from a recipe in the excellent Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook by Alice Waters and Co.

Recipe
Makes 4 legs.

Ingredients:

• 4 duck legs, thighs attached
• 2 pounds of duck fat, about 2 quarts
• 3 tablespoons salt
• 3 bay leaves, crumbled into small bits
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme
• 1 teaspoon rosemary
• 1/2 teaspoon fresh pepper

1) The day prior to cooking, prepare the legs – trim any excess fat from the thighs. Mix the dry ingredients and apply liberally to the legs.  Place in a glass baking dish and refrigerate overnight.

2) The next day, heat a cast iron dutch oven over medium heat and add the duck fat. Meanwhile, use a paper towl to remove the excess salt from the legs. Once the fat is melted, add the legs, being careful not to splatter yourself with the hot fat.

3) Reduce the heat to low. You want to avoid overheating the fat, as it will cause the duck to be gamey. I generally try to avoid heating the fat beyond the point where a few streams of small bubbles are floating to the top. Cook on low for about two and a half hours.

4) To test the legs for doneness, insert a skewer into the thickest part and remove. The legs are done when the skewer slides out easily.  Once cooked, remove from the heat and let the legs cool a bit.  Remove the legs from the pan and place in a glass or earthenware crock.  Cover with the fat and refrigerate, ensuring that all parts of the duck are completely submerged.

And there you go!  Wonderful duck confit that can either be eaten on its own (just put it under the broiler, skin side up, for 5 minutes until the skin is crispy) or added to salads, soups, sandwiches or whatever else strikes your fancy.