I’ve had an obsession for the last 6 months with duck fat. To be more specific, with finding duck fat so I can make a proper duck confit. When I was in France a couple of years ago, I was introduced to the wonderfulness that is duck cooked in it’s own fat. The rich, dark meat would appear in delicious dishes, from cassoulet to salads. Since I got back to the states, I’ve been trying to figure out how to make duck confit so I can have the meat around for myself. You can find duck confit in specialty stores, but it is cheaper, and like most things, better when you cook it yourself.
In French, confit means to preserve, usually through a combination of salt curing to remove excess moisture and slow cooking in fat. Once prepared, duck confit can last several months in the fridge (if it’s stored covered in the fat you used to cook it). But, to be honest, I’ve never had it last that long! In the states, raw duck is pretty easy to find: I can get good legs at the local Whole Foods for about $5 per pound. Duck fat on the other hand, is quite a bit more difficult. At least in the quantities I was looking for – between 2 and 4 pounds, depending on how many legs you are cooking.
Since I couldn’t find 2 pounds without paying an arm and a leg, I initially decided to try some of the recipes that allow you to substitute olive oil for the duck fat. Bad decision. The duck was, 1) too salty, but that may have been a function of the recipe, and 2) had a very weird flavor. Overall, it lacked the almost creamy texture and mellow, buttery flavor I remembered.
So, after months of searching, I was at the local Uwajimaya Asian supermarket looking for gyoza wrappers in the freezer section and stumbled on about 6 pounds of rendered duck fat: Yellow Gold! And for only 7 bucks a pound (that might sound like a lot to some of you, but keep in mind you can strain the fat once you are done and reuse it a few times). I only ended up with 2 pounds, and four meaty duck legs, but I was set!
So, here is a recipe for Duck Confit, adapted from a recipe in the excellent Chez Panisse Cafe Cookbook by Alice Waters and Co.
Recipe
Makes 4 legs.
Ingredients:
- 4 duck legs, thighs attached
- 2 pounds of duck fat, about 2 quarts
- 3 tablespoons salt
- 3 bay leaves, crumbled into small bits
- 1 teaspoon fresh thyme
- 1 teaspoon rosemary
- 1/2 teaspoon fresh pepper
1) The day prior to cooking, prepare the legs – trim any excess fat from the thighs. Mix the dry ingredients and apply liberally to the legs. Place in a glass baking dish and refrigerate overnight.
2) The next day, heat a cast iron dutch oven over medium heat and add the duck fat. Meanwhile, use a paper towl to remove the excess salt from the legs. Once the fat is melted, add the legs, being careful not to splatter yourself with the hot fat.
3) Reduce the heat to low. You want to avoid overheating the fat, as it will cause the duck to be gamey. I generally try to avoid heating the fat beyond the point where a few streams of small bubbles are floating to the top. Cook on low for about two and a half hours.
4) To test the legs for doneness, insert a skewer into the thickest part and remove. The legs are done when the skewer slides out easily. Once cooked, remove from the heat and let the legs cool a bit. Remove the legs from the pan and place in a glass or earthenware crock. Cover with the fat and refrigerate, ensuring that all parts of the duck are completely submerged.
And there you go! Wonderful duck confit that can either be eaten on its own (just put it under the broiler, skin side up, for 5 minutes until the skin is crispy) or added to salads, soups, sandwiches or whatever else strikes your fancy.
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